Allow Mainland Tourists to Go From Alishan and Sun Moon Lake to the Night Market

Allow Mainland Tourists to Go From Alishan and Sun Moon Lake to the Night Market
United Daily News editorial (Taipei, Taiwan, ROC)
A Translation
April 22, 2009

When ARATS Vice Chairman Zheng Lizhong came to Taiwan, he could only shuttle back and forth from the hotel and the conference center, under heavy guard. Before he left, he said with regret that he originally hoped to visit the Shihlin Night Market, but unfortunately "conditions did not permit."

By "conditions did not permit," he of course was referring to the Yuanshan Hotel protests of last year, when Chen Yunlin visited, which led to bloody clashes. Fearing a repeat of the incident, security was made extremely tight, even at the expense of the guest's enjoyment. The host authorities were impotent to control the masses, so they resorted to controlling the guests. Their caution was excessive. Tourists spots such as the Shihlin Night Market, and Keelung Temple Entrance are full of local Taiwan flavor. If mainland visitors lack the freedom to come and go from them as they please, is that not a sad commentary on Taiwan's democracy?

Zheng Lizhong wanting to see the Shihlin Night Market was no accident. Most Mainland tourists who come to Taiwan follow the standard tourist itinerary. They visit Alishan, Sun Moon Lake, and the National Palace Museum. Members of large corporations such as Amway visit boutiques shops in Taipei's East District. But those who have visited Taiwan several times, and those with greater curiosity about Taiwan society, often choose to visit such local hot spots as the Shilin Night Market, On the one hand they can enjoy a wide variety of local Taiwanese delicacies. On the other they can experience first hand contact with local Taiwanese. That is authentic, in-depth tourism. As an official in charge of Taiwan affairs, Zheng Lizhong naturally wanted to make personal contact with the people of Taiwan. Sad to say, given current circumstances, "conditions did not permit."

After a concerted effort by both sides, the number of visitors coming to Taiwan during the last two months has surged. It has exceeded the daily limit of 3000 people. The government is considering increasing the limit to the 7200 people a day. This means that tourism is likely to bring economic benefits. It also means that Mainland tourists coming to Taiwan are undergoing a change. They are beginning to value quality over quantity. Put simply, we now need to consider more than the tourist capacity of our tourist attractions and tourist hotels. We need to think outside the definition of traditional tourism. We need to think more about genuine contact and comprehensive interaction. If the Shihlin Night Market or roadside shops can receive Mainland tourists freely, that will represent a real expansion in cross-Strait exchange.

Zheng Lizhong was not alone in wanting to visit the Shihlin Night Market. A few days ago Terry Gou treated a large number of guests from Shanxi to snacks. Many Mainland exchange students, accompanied by local students, go there for an enjoyable taste experience. From wanting to visit Alishan to wanting to visit the Shihlin Night Market, reflects an evolution in Mainland tourist preferences. It also reflects an inevitable deepening of cross-Strait exchanges. For Mainland tourists, Alishan is a United Front era textbook image of a Taiwan tourist attraction. It is a must see attraction, but not necessarily as impressive as the one in one's imagination. On the other hand, the Shihlin Night Market is part of contemporary Taiwan's urban culture. Tourists can quickly experience first hand the diverse nature of society on Taiwan. If "conditions permit," who wants to be confined to restaurants designated by their tour groups? Who wouldn't prefer a real taste of Taiwan? For shop owners in the Night Market, who wouldn't want to have Mainland tourists publicize their artistry through word-of-mouth praise?

Neither Zhao Gengda from Changzhou, who despoiled a tourist attraction with graffiti, nor the wealthy elites of the Amway corporation are typical Mainland tourists. The majority of Mainland tourists merely want to come and see how Taiwan and mainland China differ. They are neither extravagant nor rude. They are curious and envious of the ROC's democracy. They silently observe Taiwan's culture. They remain vigilant against anti-Mainlander agitators. Some people on Taiwan may be concerned about large numbers of Mainland tourists flooding in. But let's not forget that 20 years ago, the public on Taiwan explored the mainland in the same way. The Mainland survived it just fine, and the opening led to change and progress.

For Taiwan the same is true. Allowing Mainland tourists to visit is not about anything so short-sighted as "boosting consumption." It is about allowing people on both sides of the Strait to engage in exchanges to enhance mutual understanding and friendship, thereby reducing hostility and conflict, learning from each other, and finding more things in common. That is why the government should allow Mainland tourists greater latitude. It should not limit Mainland tourists to the standard tourist attractions. It should allow them to freely associate with the public. Pro independence elements inclined to act out their hostility toward Mainland tourists should stop and think. They should consider a soft offensive against Mainland tourists, using gourmet cuisine and the human touch to persuade these Mainland pioneers to acknowledge and support the ROC's democracy, instead of merely haranguing them with insults.

If you encounter Mainland tourists at the Shihlin Night Market, what will you do? Will you chat with them? Will you share a few insights about the food? Or will you quietly observe them? The Night Market is a kind of forum, but one in which one need not speak. Just remember that when you observe others, others are observing you as well.

讓陸客從阿里山日月潭走向廟口夜市
【聯合報╱社論】
2009.04.22 05:57 am

海協會副會長鄭立中來台，幾天都只能在維安森嚴的旅館和會場間進出。離台前，他不勝遺憾地說，本來想去士林夜市看看，可惜「條件不具備」。

所謂「條件不具備」，指的當然是去年陳雲林遇上的圓山抗議事件，最後釀成了流血衝突。我方惟恐舊事重演，因此採取嚴密維安，連客人的好興致也顧不得了。接待當局這種「管不了群眾，只好管制客人」的作法，固顯得因噎廢食；但像士林夜市、基隆廟口這類充滿台灣情調的市集，如果竟容不得大陸來客自由來去，豈不是民主台灣的遺憾？

士林夜市成為鄭立中的造訪目標，並非偶然。一般陸客來台的標準觀光行程，多半直指阿里山、日月潭、故宮等地，或者諸如安利菁英團大掃台北東區精品名店。但那些曾數度來台，或者對台灣社會有不同想像與好奇的人，卻會選擇士林夜市這類在地人消費的熱點，一則品嘗各式各樣的台式小吃，二則和台灣人作第一類接觸，那才是真正的深度旅遊。身為對台工作的官員，鄭立中當然想親身體驗台灣的民情，但現狀下確實「條件不具備」。

在兩岸的努力下，近兩個月陸客來台人數激增，突破了每日三千人的上限，正考慮上修為每日七千兩百人。這除反映「觀光帶動經濟」的效益更可能實現，也意味陸客來台即將進入一個從「量變」到「質變」的過程。簡單地說，我們面對的情況，不僅僅是考慮旅遊景點及觀光飯店的接待能力，而是要跨越傳統的「觀光」定義，思考更真實的接觸和更全面的互動。如果士林夜市或街旁小店都能隨時接待陸客，那才是兩岸交流效益的極大化。

不只鄭立中想去士林夜市，郭台銘日前也才招待了大批山西鄉親在那裡大啖小吃，更多大陸交換學生則在本地同學陪伴下，在此有過愉快的味覺經驗。從志在一遊「阿里山」到嚮往「士林夜市」，不僅可看出陸客口味的蛻變，也是兩岸交流深化的必然。對陸客而言，阿里山是統戰年代教科書上的台灣樣板名勝，此生必要親訪，有時卻未若神遊；而諸如士林的各地夜市卻是現代台灣市井文化的新藝綜合體，來客在短短時間即能親炙台灣社會的生猛多元。如果「條件具備」，誰願被局限在團進團出的定點餐廳中，而不去品嘗一下活生生的台灣滋味？而在夜市攤商而言，又有誰不想讓自己的好手藝留在陸客讚嘆的口碑裡？

常州的趙根大，光鮮闊綽的安利菁英團，其實都不是典型的大陸觀光客。多數陸客只是想來看看台灣究竟和中國有什麼不同，他們既不囂張，也不粗魯；他們對台灣民主懷著好奇和欽慕，對台灣文化默默比較觀察，對反中人士的嗆聲則保持作客者的警覺。如果有人對於陸客大量湧到感到不安，別忘了廿年前台灣人曾以同樣的方式進入中國探索，中國並未因此受害，反而因開放而有了變化與進步的動力。

對台灣而言，也是如此。開放陸客觀光，絕不只是為了「提振消費」那樣短視近利的目的，而是希望兩岸人民在交流中增進了解和友誼，從而減少敵意、降低衝突，進而彼此學習，發現彼此更大的共同利基。也因此，政府應再提供更大的空間，讓陸客的行程不必局限在制式景點，使他們有深入民間的機會與自由。而那些隨時想給陸客一記「當頭棒喝」的獨派人士，若肯往深處想，說不定也能換一個比較積極的思維，設法用美食、溫情及文化攻勢，爭取這些先鋒陸客成為支持與認同台灣民主的朋友，而不只是始終用一盤「嗆聲」的冷菜來轟炸他們。

如果在士林夜市遇見大陸觀光客，你會怎麼做？也許可以和他聊聊，也許為他解說一下小吃，也許只是默默觀察。夜市本身就是一場雄辯，無需多言。只是別忘了，當你在觀察對方時，人家也在觀察你。